Several people have asked me about them. So here a compilation of all the gadgets (& accessories) I bring to our outings and additional options.
PLB – Walkie Talkies – GPS – Cameras – Phone cases – Torches & headlamps – Power banks – First aids after “drowning”
Personal Locator Beacon
Also known as “the button” (by my gf😄). Basically you press it with sky view (does not work in buildings, caves, and other indoors, as needs satellite coverage) and the rescue teams should be able to locate you with precision.
I have a five-year-old ACR ResQLink+ whose battery I’ll need to change soon.
I bought it because it floats, it is easy to use and seems the most reliable in a real emergency situation all around the world. In Hong Kong, you need to register it at the Communications Authority so that the signal of the Beacon is under your name and in case of emergency they know who to contact (two people per device). There is a yearly fee of <HKD100. The unit itself was expensive, for something you hope to never use. Now similar newer models are in the USD320 range.
There are a few other options for an emergency signaling device. A video explaining the basics.
The Garmin and other one/two-way communication devices require you to pay a monthly/yearly fee for the service. Similar to a mobile plan. Which makes them significantly more expensive. The pro is that you can use them to inform your family/friends of your whereabouts, if you are late, etc. For a real emergency, their satellite coverage tends to be a bit weaker and you might need a bigger open area to operate. I liked this comment in the above video “PLBs save your life and communicators save your social life” 😉
An article with different models and additional gadgets, like dive containers so that you can bring the PLB with you even when scuba diving. A bit cheaper satellite communicators not mentioned in the article: Zoleo, Bivy Stick and others that are coming lately to market. Always read tons of reviews about the service provided, etc before buying any model. As mentioned, they are somehow similar to mobile companies, for the good and bad…
Talking about mobile networks. Their coverage in Hong Kong outdoors is, let’s say, complicated. It will depend on your mobile (some have better antenna) and, above all, the service company. In general, I would say that Smartone has the best but it allows you only to make calls from big parts of the major hiking paths. The further you go, to remote islands, deep in the jungle, into streams with high walls, the less signal you will have. Quite frequently, above all in the Northern Territories, including some remote islands, the phone stops detecting local signal but roaming options start, with the very powerful Mainland operators. If you don’t have any of the above gadgets, having a mobile plan that allows you roaming could help you a lot.
Update 2023: iPhone 14 is the first mobile phone that is starting to include similar capabilities. Still not working in Hong Kong, but I hope that it will do so soon and other phones too.
Walkie Talkies
I use them very little, but they are very handy when with bigger groups or want to have two plans in one outing. Two different speed groups, or two slightly different routes with the same start and endpoints, for example. We used them recently in Basalt Island as I was doing the full island with a buddy while most of the boat was doing just the short East route.
I bought the Motorola T600 cause they are waterproof, float, are USB rechargeable, and have a decent range. The latter would vary according to the terrain. The more open the better range, but even in streams with walls around they tend to work well. Little “trick” that took me a while to discover: if the unit gets wet the flashlight switches on automatically in strobe mode, to switch it off you need to click on the volume buttons. Five years later, there must be newer & better models in the market.
GPS
I have a GPS watch that I use to record my outings, but I mainly use different apps in the phone for navigation purposes. Everything explained in this post.
I would only use the maps in the small GPS watch screen if trail running or swimming. For coasteering and hiking the big screen of the phone is way better.
Cameras
I have used different cameras, but in the last years, the phone is by far my first option. Multi-function convenience, different lenses in one device (I prefer the wide angle for most shots, but I can use the regular also, or phones with optical telephotos), being able to see clearly on screen the picture you are taking without surprises later (water droplet spoiled footage was a classic).
Nevertheless, you can consider other options. There are different rugged cameras in the market. Among the best known is the Tough series of Olympus. The TG-6 is its last iteration.
The transition from air to water is way smoother
and its macro capabilities are really good.
Add some editing and you can have powerful pics a la Roland.
Main recommendation if you buy it. Be extra careful with the battery/SD card gate. Even if it has a double secure locking I have seen too many partly open and destroy the camera with sea water… Putting duct tape or similar above is highly recommended.
GoPro and alike action cameras are great for video. I continue using a really old model (Garmin Black 4 vs 10 that is to be sold in October) when we are going to really choppy coasteering outings. Newer models are a lot more stable and full of features. Tyler’s videos (example above) were recorded with a GoPro 360. It is really easy to use (unlike other similar cameras) and allows very creative angles and editing. Under the water so far not working great though. And even if all these action cameras are able to take pictures their quality tends to be significantly worse than the phone or the aforementioned Olympus.
Whatever you use, to avoid water droplets spoiling your pics and videos remember to wipe & lick regularly.
Update 2024: In 2023 we bought a new GoPro 11. Since then I have been bringing it as a backup camera and also to record way more videos. For that, eventually, I found that the DJI Bit Mount is a good option.
It is small enough that I can bring the full thing in my trousers side pocket (with a tiny carabiner attached to the trousers belt loop that I can link to the leash for extra security) and every time I want to record anything I just put it in my mouth and I have my hands free to scramble, etc.
Phone cases
As mentioned, my mobile is my main camera and GPS device. Currently, Samsung s10e which is by itself IP68 dust/water resistant (up to 1.5m for 30 mins). Nevertheless, I would not use it without further protection in, at least, the sea. For that I have been using for years Ghostek cases. My old Samsung s7 is still inside a Ghostek Atomic 2.0 case. Almost all coasteering pics before April 2020 on this web were taken with it and I still use it as a backup phone/camera. Later they started producing specific water activity-related models. I bought a Ghostek Nautical for Summer’s Samsung s9 which she used for example in East Dam and other coasteering routes. It never leaked.
My first Nautical for the s10e was not as good. The main problem is the location of the fingerprint reader in the phone itself. It is on the side which makes the closure up there weaker.
I could even feel it the first time putting the case. With the S9’s you can feel it more secure, even hear a tiny reassuring “pop”. So just in case, I started double bagging. I bought an Overboard multipurpose soft case where I put the phone when I am going to jump from high or swim.
The rest of the time the phone stays in the blue camera holder (originally for the Olympus Tough series) that, by chance, fits perfectly. Both firmly secured to the backpack’s shoulder straps around chest level.
The soft case also protects the case when not in use. The weakest area of the case, for my purposes, is the lens window. It is easy to scratch if you just drop it in your backpack with other gear, for example. So for years, I used to cover the s7’s with a goggles bag.
Any cloth covering will work.
Depending on the material of the lens window it will last longer or less. S7’s which is crystal hard longer. Nautical’s, which is more thin plastic, started degrading after half a year of heavy use. Too much seawater and sun. Still, I could take pics with it, but the color on them is slightly reddish. Relatively easy to edit.
“Iurgi, I have an iPhone 11 (or insert whichever is your phone), which case would you recommend me?” Ehhhh 😅 no idea. Do your research. Tons of reviews online. For example
A few tips I have for our activities. If you can find a case without the window for the fingerprint reader, heart rate monitor, and others present in several phones, better. I want the case for maximum protection in our outings, not for daily life use. The fingerprint readers and others don’t work with water. The smaller the window for the camera the worse. One of the most annoying things in the water is removing droplets from in front of the camera lens. The wider the window the easier it tends to be. Even with the most stubborn droplet, I can move it from above one lens to the other in my s10e. In the pic below the droplet on the right would be blurring the lens on that side (wide angle), but not on the other.
The small rounded windows in the cases in the video above look bad and the Ghostek’s (which look slightly deeper), above all, look like they would be a pain in my ass while coasteering.
I would go for a well-known brand and avoid cheap “Taobao” cases. So above mentioned Catalyst, Lifeproof, & Ghostek for example.
What about waterproof pouches instead? Not my cup of tea but for basic snorkeling. They are easier to put the phone in and out, some can float, and tend to be cheaper. But they are too bulky, I don’t like something dangling around my neck full route, and the picture quality tends to be worse, with fogging and other problems.
Torches & headlamps
For caving are completely necessary, but we also use them for night hiking, illuminating better pictures, and checking dark corners while coasteering. A torch can be more versatile in certain situations and a headlamp lets you do your activity hands-free.
The unit to measure the quantity of light emitted per unit of time is called lumen. Everything else being equal the higher the number the brighter the light. Here are the ones we have been using for a while as examples.
I have been using the Petzl Tikka r+ for almost a decade for trail running and emergency uses. Slightly less than 200-lumen max output is not bright enough to feel comfortable in pitch-dark tunnels for most of my friends. Definitely not good for photo taking. That is why I usually bring my 900-lumen diving torch to illuminate the pics further. It has an attachable red filter too, which, as mentioned in the caving post, is really handy when we find bat colonies. It is a scuba torch and therefore extremely waterproof. It is also supposed to be water-cooled and therefore I can not keep it switched on long outside without decreasing its lifespan. Finally, Summer usually brings her OnNight 710 from Decathlon with max 300 lumen. This is a good starting level even for photo-taking undergrown.
Now that I am thinking of buying a new one, what are the things that I am considering? Foremost light output. Not only the maximum lumen and how many intermediate spots there are. Also if it has a red light, that allows you to maintain your night vision and is less intrusive for wildlife. Researching I discovered that some torches have also special green beams (that help with detail at night, like on a rocky trail, or reading contour lines on a map) and blue beams (for hunting). The optic and the beam pattern are also important. Even with the same lumen figure, two torches can feel completely different. The terms used are Spotlight for a more focused beam Vs Floodlight for a wider diffused beam. The former will allow you to see further ahead and the latter will illuminate a bigger area around you but not so far (I prefer it for pics). There are headlamps that have separate lamps for each function that you can use also together for maximum output. A video explaining all this and way more.
Waterproofing. Considering how many of our activities include being close to or in the water it is almost a must. I am seeing more and more models these days with IPx8 certification.
Weight and comfort. If you are going to be wearing it for long this is something important to consider. For those trail running regularly after sunset, I would go with lighter and more compact models. I do it sometimes, but not so much. Therefore I can buy a bit heavier model. The headband needs to be comfortable anyhow.
Battery life will depend on the output, battery size, and efficiency of the headlamp. Trying to figure out with the tables on the box how much each mode will last can be tricky sometimes: is it on continued mode, or does the output drop steadily in higher power modes? Check charts, read reviews, and watch videos to try to know more.
Rechargeable batteries are a must for me. Single-use batteries are such a waste and polluting. Nevertheless, all rechargeable batteries are not made equal. Proprietary formats that can be used with one specific model are not so good. Now I prefer torches using 18650 type batteries (same as my diving one, so that I can swap) ideally of max capacity (3500mAh), and if chargeable directly with a C type USB then is a winner! 🙂
So with all the previous, this could be my headlamp/torch for the next decade.
Maintenance. For those of you using them sporadically, the usual recommendation is to clean them before storage and remove the batteries half to full charged. Store all in a dry, well-ventilated area, out of direct sunlight. Read the manufacturer’s manual for specific requirements/recommendations.
Power banks
Considering how much I use my phone for everything I almost always bring a power bank with me. Currently, you can find fast-charging 10,000mAh small power banks that weigh little and can last long. In my case, I charge the phone almost up to the maximum before starting the activity and I bring a wireless charging pad so that I can charge it even within the case or if it has got wet.
You can go even more minimal.
I haven’t used it, but it looked an interesting option for ultra minimalists.
If you forget your power bank you can always borrow one from 7-Eleven or Circle K.
First aids after tech “drowning”
No matter how careful you are eventually your phone or else might get soaked. If it is with seawater, as soon as possible, get it in a thin freshwater layer and dry it. Removing the salt of the seawater must be your first goal, as it can be the most damaging. Even waterproof phones can short circuit when dry if you have salt rests in the charging port, for example.
If the gadget itself is not waterproof, switch it off, dry the outside, if possible remove the battery, sake it to try to make any water come out, use the corner of a towel or cloth to absorb further, you can even use a plastic bag, suck out the air to create a vacuum effect to extract more water from the inside. Finally put the gadget in a small air-tight lunchbox with rice or moisture-absorbing bags (those silica bags you can find in different products). Alternatively, put it in a bowl of rice and next to the dehumidifier. Wait for days.
Don’t use a hairdryer or anything that can heat the gadget. It is drowned, you don’t want to fry it too.
How long after can it revive? Funny anecdote. I cracked the screen of my Sony Z and got soaked. It started malfunctioning a few hours later. I switched it off, dried, rice for days, I tried to switch it on but it was not working. I brought it to the Sony repair shop and they told me that repairing the water-damaged parts would cost almost as much as a new phone… I brought it home without repair but kept it on a shelf close to the air-con and dehumidifier. Months later when I was going to use one of its internal parts for a little DIY, I gave it a try and… It switched on! 😄
1 Pingback