At least once a year I go back to my roots. In this post I will compile all the routes and posts I write about the area for easier reference.

Bilbao is my hometown. Basque Country all the region around. It is a bit confusing, as it is not a country per se. Most of it is in the Northern Spain and part in the South of France. Basically, all the lands where our own language, Basque, was spoken. It is completely different from any other language in Europe. To summarize it a lot, the region was too mountainous and with so little valuables that big conquering empires decided not to spend much time on it. That’s why Spanish, French, Catalan, Portuguese, etc are Latin based (Roman Empire). But Basque language remained isolated and with little changes for millenia. If you ever wondered why I’m called Iurgi and that name doesn’t look proper Spanish, now you know why 😉

The weather tends to be cool and wet in the coastal regions. Average minimum of 5C and max of 28C in Bilbao. With slightly drier summer and very rainy rest of the year. It tends not to pour, but grey drizzling days are very common. The interior, once you pass the highest mountains has more extreme temperatures and it is drier.

Summer, who had been there only in the best days in summer time, thought that the weather was wonderful. Blue unpoluted skies, low humidity, up to 30 degrees at noon and cool comfortable sleeping nights without AC. You can have those, but are not common. Lucky her in her first visit.

The coastline is very rugged and with very peculiar rock formations. Explained below. The mountains are not specially high. Hiru Errege Mahai at 2,400m the highest. But there are a ton, in a continuous ups and downs with not specially big valleys. Even Bilbao itself, the biggest city, is cramped among hills.

All the area is very well known for its cuisine. If you like “tapas” in Basque Country we have the next level: “pinchos”. Usually, more elaborated tiny dishes. Although you can have the more regular croquettes, Spanish omelets and others. Summer was 🤩 as soon as we got into the first pincho bar in San Sebastián (Donostia). Just beware that they can be quite oily and heavy. In case your stomach is not ready for it.

Let’s start with the routes that have deserved a full post

And the Map.

Around Bilbao there are tons of hills and little mountains. The most obvious is Artxanda. The “Bide Berdea” (Green Path) takes you up and down there. My go to when with little time. Nothing specially interesting, but the views of the city below and some historical sites, mainly related with the Spanish civil war. Here the Garmin track of a day where we did part of it and then jog back through the promenade next to the river and the most famous spot of the whole city: the Guggenheim Museum.

The subway allows you to get up till Plentzia. There is a fine hiking/biking route back passing by tons of beaches and impressive coastline.

One of the last times there (Garmin track) I mixed trail running and dry coasteering. I realized that the tide was really low and that I would be able to dry coasteer from Barrika to Sopelana even if I didn’t have any gear with me (gloves, protective clothing, waterproof bag…). Very nice rocks en route.

If with coasteering gear the real coasteering mentioned above is really good.

On the Left Bank of Nervión River is where all the industry was set centuries ago. There are decent hiking paths. Garmin track starting from Kobaron and trail running back to Portugalete.

I have hiked and run several paths also in the Arboleda (the Grove) area.

Urdaibai is where my grandparents grew (Kanala village specifically) and where we used to spend summers and quite some weekends. Since several decades ago a biosphere reserve. Diverse natural landscapes in one small area. Low altitude mountains with steep slopes give way to a valley that leads to the sea, forming a wide estuary. The floodplain turns into marshland, while also shaping cliffs and beaches.


Where I learned how to swim. The tidal currents are extremely strong, but once you know their timing you can enjoy them. Using them to swim longer distances. That way Summer swam with the family her first long open water route 😀 Not very confident initially until she realized that in the worst case she only needed to float and the current was pushing her in the right direction.

Nearby it is one of the best surfing waves in Europe: Mundaka. Not a bad last destination as lifeguard before I moved to the corporate world 😉

And there are a lot of caves due to the peculiar geology of the area. Not far from the little castle of Arteaga the one we enjoyed the most.

Childhood fun going in with super basic torches, or just candles, a tiny raft to cross the “lake” with the torches inside plastic bags… Day by day we got deeper and deeper till my mum discovered what we were doing and forbid us to go in “till you guys are at least 18 years old, no way!”. A few years ago while on holidays I decided it was a good time to rediscover it with my bros and a friend. This time with a bit better material. Having fun remembering old stories and going deeper than what we had never gone. In any case, still more galleries to try some other day, as according to some speleology team (who left the ropes there) it is several kilometers long. Click on the image below. It will start the old Facebook video. Click on the wheel and change to HD for better resolution.

Around Urdaibai now there are even super well-known touristy spots. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe for example became extra famous due to being part of the Game of Thrones.

Also due to the same reason Zumaia Flysch (peculiar formation) became very famous some years ago. You can hike and super easy dry coasteer around.

I did the previous two with Summer quite some years ago (missing videos…) in one day partially running. On our way back driving from the French part of the Basque Country. Very picturesque villages and huge beaches in the very East of France.

On your way also aforementioned San Sebastian and other beauties.

We have plenty of trail running races. One of the most well known for its views and technicality is Zegama Aizkorri. I haven’t raced it myself, but I trail run & hiked around a few times. Very pretty + memories of hiking Aizkorri in high school.

I will continue adding more routes and remarkable places in the future.